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Case 446-75

16K views 29 replies 12 participants last post by  Lionel 
#1 ·
Hi Everyone,

I'm pleased to present my 446. Totally redone, top to bottom, sporting a "new engine" not a rebuild, including new starter and pump, intake manifold, carb was rebuilt. Steering wise, everything was replaced excluding, "1 front tire/rim and steering wheel", Everything else, was changed. Fresh new hoses through out, hydr cylinder rebuilt, a bunch of sanding and sandblasting,, fresh new paint, New tires on the back loaded with calcium, new seat and slider, and the list goes on,

It sure runs nice,,
Sorry about the pics,, cell phone pictures, which don't do justice to it.

The only thing that was farmed out was the sandblasting,, lastly, roughly 75% is wrapped in that stuff people use on cars, a clear plastic,, Fenders, hood, the thing you step on, parts of the frame, tanks,,

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#2 ·
As well, whiles I was at it, and redid my snow caster, all new bearings, pulleys, sprockets, bushing, chain. A lot of hammer work, did a few mods whiles I was at it as well. Added a chain tightener, added belting to the center part of the auger, cut a few more notches in the rotating chute,, both sides, added a power window motor for chute rotation and I'm waiting on a lineal actuator. Orange Motor vehicle Gas Wood Machine
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#8 ·
Thanks everyone.

To anyone else looking at doing a restoration,, I worked on this on all of my free time, Started the first week of July, and finished up just a week ago, first week of Oct,, so roughly 12-14 weeks.

The cost was expensive, I think it works out to roughly half the cost of buying a new one,, mine looks just as nice, turned out better then anticipated, and regardless of work or costs, I quite enjoy looking at it, knowing that I did all of that, plus, I get bragging rights with the neighbors,, nobody else has a 40 yr old tractor, that looks like this,, not in my area anyways,,
 
#10 ·
I am looking to add a chain tightener mod to my snowcaster. Can you post some close-ups of your tightener mod?
The early H series snowcaster had a very simple chain tightener that you might want to explore. I have attached the parts manual link http://casecoltingersoll.com/manuals/PartsManuals/H Snowcaster.pdf
If you look at I think page 3 or 4 you will see a slot cut into the caster side close to the jackshaft bearing and the parts are also shown. BrianH can still get the parts.
Ray
 
#20 ·
Here is the 446-75 and it's implements that I dropped off at my daughters place in Quesnel last weekend. (only item missing is the front blade, mainly because I ran out of room in my truck). The only item not overhauled/restored was the tiller, which I plan doing as the summer progresses along.

Of course, I have "no idea" as to how all that mud/dirt got onto the wheels/tire, tiller and plow. :)
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#22 · (Edited)
Thought I'd add this to this tractor,,

Got the tiller completed, it's probably the easiest of all the attachments to do,, has way less pieces then everything else.
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I'm also adding the mower deck, J 46-75 from a previous post, that was completed at Xmas time,
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This, finally, completes everything attachment wise that goes with this tractor.

May long weekend, I plan installing an integrated TCV with holding valve onto this tractor,, along with, "just for the heck of it", a NOS neutral safety switch, "the one on there is new, but it's the latest production one". From another post, I have to be "gentle" when shifting, so I'll try the switch first, as I want to see what difference it makes to the tractor, as compared to the ones sold today. They are quite a bit different, and if I have it correct, that change to the neutral start switch was done as a result of legislation requirements. (it's in one of the tech tips),, I'll update the other thread,, after changing out the safety switch,. checking linkages, mainly around the hole the linkage arm fits into at the bottom of the shift lever,, fixing what ever if required, changing out the valve, and setting up the spool so it has equal pressure on both sides. It'll be do one thing,, and test sort of thing, till I get the thing to shift,, like I think it should.

As far as mounting the integrated valve,, Since the mounting holes are roughly 3/4" further back on the newer valve, (and being of stubborn french Canadian descent, refusing to add extra holes to the frame if not required), I've made up a mounting plate with pre-drilled holes and welded 5/16ths studs. For mounting to frame, it'll be bolted tight against bottom of frame with the pre-drilled holes and then I'll slide the new TCV onto the studs and bolt it down tight. Should go as slick as butter ,,, Hopefully, everything will fit like a glove, and for the metal tubes to the drive motor,, it'll be a torch and tweaking of bends,, with hoses as backup if I get that wrong,,
 
#27 · (Edited)
Thought I'd add this to this tractor,,

Got the tiller completed, it's probably the easiest of all the attachments to do,, has way less pieces then everything else.
View attachment 5641

I'm also adding the mower deck, J 46-75 from a previous post, that was completed at Xmas time,
View attachment 5642

This, finally, completes everything attachment wise that goes with this tractor.

May long weekend, I plan installing an integrated TCV with holding valve onto this tractor,, along with, "just for the heck of it", a NOS neutral safety switch, "the one on there is new, but it's the latest production one". From another post, I have to be "gentle" when shifting, so I'll try the switch first, as I want to see what difference it makes to the tractor, as compared to the ones sold today. They are quite a bit different, and if I have it correct, that change to the neutral start switch was done as a result of legislation requirements. (it's in one of the tech tips),, I'll update the other thread,, after changing out the safety switch,. checking linkages, mainly around the hole the linkage arm fits into at the bottom of the shift lever,, fixing what ever if required, changing out the valve, and setting up the spool so it has equal pressure on both sides. It'll be do one thing,, and test sort of thing, till I get the thing to shift,, like I think it should.

As far as mounting the integrated valve,, Since the mounting holes are roughly 3/4" further back on the newer valve, (and being of stubborn french Canadian descent, refusing to add extra holes to the frame if not required), I've made up a mounting plate with pre-drilled holes and welded 5/16ths studs. For mounting to frame, it'll be bolted tight against bottom of frame with the pre-drilled holes and then I'll slide the new TCV onto the studs and bolt it down tight. Should go as slick as butter ,,, Hopefully, everything will fit like a glove, and for the metal tubes to the drive motor,, it'll be a torch and tweaking of bends,, with hoses as backup if I get that wrong,,
Hi Everyone,,

This is probably more of an advisement, versus a query.

My son in law has been struggling to make use of the attached J46 mower, which I redid. It spins the belts off, in less then 2 minutes,, steady!

Today I went for a visit,, and looking at the mower,, it struck me with what I think the problem is. (If I'd known that in advance, I'd of taken care of it today).

Anyways, I fully restored this deck. When I did it, I figured the sub-frame was out of square,, so guess what,, I bought a new sub frame from a dealer,, and of course,, it subbed up to a new part number.

Well, as I was looking at it, on the mower today, I figured part of the problem was the "arc" of the sub frame. So we took it off, and measured that arc,, with the back of the sub frame (flat end) sitting on a flat surface, the other end of the sub frame sticks up 3.5". When I got home tonight, I dug out the old one, and did the same measurements,, well it sits at 1.75" versus 3.5" of the new piece. So, that will put the belts out of alignment by roughly 2",, which I think will cause a lot of grief.

If I remember correctly, the parts was roughly $100-$125 Canadian,, so far's I'm concerned, another waste of hard earned $$$. I even had the stupid thing powder coated,, just to add in further costs.

So, here's my take away from all of this. AS individuals order up new parts for their projects,, when you're advised that the part subs up to a newer part #,, you should post on here to see if anyone has used the new sub part, on the old application and see if there's any feedback. You might be surprised with the results,, Currently, in subbed parts, I think I'm at $300-$400 in wasted costs,, so ask before spending would be a good idea. That, or make use of Ebay more often as most times, you can get the excat part you were looking for.
 
#24 ·
Just thought I'd add this bit of info.

I did mount the integrated valve on, with the backing plate I'd prefabbed, it went on using the original holes in the frame. I did have to heat the tubes and bend them a bit. Turns out, heating and bending tubes isn't a difficult thing to do,, so I ended up using the original tubes that came with it.

Earlier on, in another post I'd talked about how, "quick it was at starting off in gear" I'm glad to report back that my son in law now likes the way it takes off,, not as jumpy as compared to what it was.

I wish I had taken a picture of the adapter plate I'd made up, (forgot about it) but it was 1/2" wider, then the original TCV. I made it up, so that the plate was bolted on to the bottom of the tractor, using the original mounting holes. I'd preset, and welded 2 studs onto the plate, roughly 5/8" back from the original mounting holes. Slid the Integrated valve up, onto the studs and bolted her it up. As an added bonus,, when I mounted the metal line that comes from the PTO valve, it now sat about an 1/8" lower, and had just that clearance required so the sector gear wasn't in conflict with it.

My take away from all this,

The Integrated TCV from a long frame tractor, isn't difficult to adapt to an older short frame 446, and all the metal lines can be re-used with a bit of heating and bending, including using the original TCV mounting holes.
 
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