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Case help

4K views 25 replies 13 participants last post by  Jared185 
#1 ·
Hi guys so I got a new case 80xc mower from Craigslist. I don't know if it runs though he said it did. Anyway I got the mower because I've not seen any lawn mowers from case and case is my favorite tractor brand and what I use in my garden. Anyway the mower has no rust at all anywhere it was a one owner he has pictures of it but didn't remember the year also the deck looks like Swiss cheese with rust holes. Anyway I'm fixing to restore
It but have a couple questions. Like is there any parts support and also when I repaint where would I find the case stickers?
 
#2 ·
Thanks for any and all replies I only paid 50 for it so I think I got a good deal also any other advice you all can give on this machine would be great as I can find hardly any info on the web about the model. Also the serial number is 9776222 if you all could help me out with the year of it
 
#3 ·
Jared, by the serial number provided I'd guess that it is a 1980 model as the Jan. 1 starting s/n was 9775130. You could confirm that by checking the first two digits of the engine code stamped into the blower housing on the Briggs engine, they should be 80. You mention however that it is a model 80XC, does it say that on the tower decal? I don't think that the 80XC was introduced until several years later starting with s/n 14030675. If your's is a 1980 it's a model 80 not 80XC, there is really not any difference however. We can help with any parts needed for your restoration, http://www.casegardentractorparts.com/ .
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the info it says model 80 but I assumed that it was still the xc model. Thanks for the link I may have to get another deck for the mower as this one was left outside under a deck and is in very poor shape I'll try to post some pics as far as Parts that I know need replaced I need a battery and a key switch for ignition but I'm fixing to tear it completely apart and go through the whole mower I'm sure I'll need other things. But I'm surprised at how good of shape the mower is in literally there's not a spec of rust anywhere except for the shifters on the dash
 
#7 ·
Yeah I was browsing through Craigslist and Being a case fan I had to buy it. He wanted 100 I offered 80 and the deal was set but when I went to pick it up I wanted to start it and he'd sold the battery so I couldn't start it so I told him since I couldn't hear it run I wanted the best I'd do is 50.00. He said no and as I was going to my truck he said he'd do it and I loaded it up. The motor has compression so I'm sure it's fine.
 
#8 ·
jared185
Great looking little mowing machine, you did a great deal as well :thumbup: :goodpost:
You never know what people on CL will try getting away with,(OH you wanted the battery too) :rotflmao:
I'm glad you stuck to your guns on this deal, he didn't make out at all, I'm thinking you could buy a pretty good battery for $50 bucks :lol:
your negotiating skills really worked well for you, great job. :thumbup:

bigman :usa:
 
#13 ·
Well as far as a repaint goes I think it's been repainted already in spots. There are a few runs in the paint and there are a few spots that have rust under and around the chassis that I didn't notice till I took hood off and need repainted to prevent more rust other than that the only rust spots on it is surface rust up on the front deck around the 80 sticker. i got it jacked up and noticed the pulleys are bent. Also the carb needs attention but motor seems in good shape. I'm trying to get motor out and the bolt holding the pulley on is stuck I've tried lube and am wondering what else I could try
 
#14 ·
I know the factory did some not so high quality things with paint. My dad purchased a 4020PS brand new from Pierz Implement around 1991 or 1992 and portions of the tower and frame in that area had been repainted and the prep was horrible so some of it flakes off occasionally. Paint underneath it is looks decent so I have no idea why any portion of it was resprayed.

I would certainly repaint any rusty spots and the whole unit if you want to. It is your mower. I just think it is a really cool little unit and I like it the way it is.

I have never worked on one of these so I cannot help with the pulley too much. At least not without better pictures of the pulley you are trying to remove.
 
#15 ·
There isn't a listing for this model on TractorData.com . Were these mowers hydraulic driven like the bigger tractors?
jared185,
You got a good deal on the Case 80. Keep us updated on your restoration project. Remember, we like pictures, lots and lots of pictures.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for all the replies guys I appreciate it. I've not done a great deal of work on mowers but I am learning. Ok I've got to work on the lil mower for about an hour before church, anyway so I took some pics of the pulley and top of motor. So i tried to turn the nut at the pulley end and it just spun the motor so I tried my best to stop the motor from spinning without damaging the engine so I took off the top and held it with one socket and turned the bottom pulley with another and still nothing but my arm sure feels great now lol. Anyway used some wd40 and other things to try and loosen and still nothing. I can't take motor off without the pulleys off first and it's slowing me down a bit. But I'll show you all some pics and hopefully i figure a way of taking this off. Oh and don't laugh too much at my improvised jack stands my stand are under another project.
 

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#18 ·
Here's a little trick that might help you. To keep an engine from turning while, you are working on it. Remove the spark plug and stuff a length of recoil rope into the cylinder. When the piston reaches the head the rope will prevent the piston and crank from moving while you are trying to loosen that rusty nut. Another thing that will help is to use PB Blaster to penetrate the rust. Spray a bunch on the nut and leave it soak for a hour or more. If that doesn't work you may have to heat the nut with a torch.
 
#19 ·
I think Curtis has a good suggestion,

Most times,, with flywheel nuts or anything else on the crank shaft,
An impact is the easiest and just about the only tool to use. It makes short work of those nuts and it doesn't cause damage to anything your working on.

The other thing to be careful of, is reverse threads,
 
#20 ·
three things are helpful in removing pulleys and flywheels. Penetrating fluid (Kroil, pbblaster, ATF, etc), impact wrench and time. Let the stuff work, the longer it soaks in the better. IMO, overnight is a minimum as I've never seen any evidence of penetration any sooner than that.

If those don't work: heat, acetylene torch, if available, is best.

Sometimes, heat followed by cooling and more ATF etc works too.

The thing most needed is the one thing I'm short of: patience!!
 
#22 ·
Thanks for replies ok so i don't have an impact wrench at the moment my old one quit working so I think I might take it to a shop I have a buddy that owns one and probably won't charge to take that off.i used pb blast and am letting it soak also I figured out that the mower had a repaint job on it and the color on the mower is not original. I did some sanding on the rust spots on the mower and looks like the original color of the frame was black and the hood was originally the color it is now as I did a little sanding to it also and no other colors showed through also I lifted mower and the very bottom of the frame is a really beat up black color so it looks like sometime in the past the frames was repainted the same color as the hood
 
#24 ·
+ 1 for Kroil . It's the best penetrating oil made. I haven't tried atf with acetone but have heard of it. Atf also helpful with gaskets, and seals that leak slightly. Impact gun helps. If you don't have impact spray kroil , slide socket over nut and hammer lightly the vibration helps kroil penetrate. If that doesn't work heat and quick cool. If all else fails and the pulley is replaceable cut into it almost to shaft and finish splitting with fat dull chisel. Jim
 
#26 ·
Thanks guys I appreciate all the help and replies. So I have been busy with gardens and whatnot and haven't been able to post anything but I wanted to post what I've got done the last little bit lol.

So first the motor and pulley is still attached. I've tried heat, liquid wrench,pb blast and others. I've also tried a impact wrench but nothing it's like it's welded on so I may have to fire up the plasma cutter.

Anyway I got the motor out of frame, just unbolted the platform the motor sit on and it all come out in one piece.

I also got a lot of the parts out from under it cleaned it up with a good pressure wash and started used a paint wheel from local auto parts store and started stripping paint I'm orange from head to toe lol
 

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