Reconditioning Batteries - Page 2
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  1. #11
    Bus Driver Mr Dave's Avatar
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    For us tight wads,, HF has this:

    Spring Black Friday deal on 4-12 4-13 and 4-14 is $21.99

    https://www.harborfreight.com/4-amp-...ner-63350.html
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  3. #12
    Senior Member Maine Willy's Avatar
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    I've used these for years with good results:
    https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende...gateway&sr=8-1

    Started with a motorcycle way back when. Expanded to the Tractors and now my backup generator for the house.

    They come with a "plug" that fastens onto the battery posts to make it easy to connect the battery after running the equipment.

    With Respect, Willy

  4. #13
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    Ok, so yesterday I finally got motivated to cough up for a charger that can recondition.

    https://www.blackanddecker.com/produ...charger/bc15bd

    I haven't taken it through a full restore yet but it did top off the tractor batt that has been giving me trouble quickly (~1hr.). We'll see how that goes today.

    Then, my camper wouldn't start. Wouldn't even click, so I jumped it. That function worked as described. Ran it for a bit, for the alternator to charge it some and then put the charger back on. The gauge said 16.5 amps going in. Left it overnight and it was down to FLO (maintainer charge rate) by morning. We'll see how that goes later too.

    I have a really old L&G batt that will take a charge but not hold it.

    Charged it overnight at 10 amps, then put the new charger on recondition mode. According to the instructions, that can be a multi day process so, more on that later.

    We all know that indicators have varying degrees of accuracy, so until the proof being in the pudding is borne out, no real way to know anything at this writing but it has a battery voltage check button and I checked it against my voltmeter and got the same reading.

    As to the suggestions of the mini battery maintainers ... I may get a couple for those that can be kept plugged in but not all of my batts are within easy reach of a power source that can be left plugged in.

    As for the solar panel idea. I have one for the coach batt in my camper but its too powerful to keep plugged in all the time.

    I'll post more results as they come in but if this thing can resurrect just 1 of my more expensive batts, its paid for itself and as it turns out, I have several to go through.
    Last edited by dave1mn2; 05-22-2020 at 10:18 AM.

  5. #14
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    "I haven't taken it through a full restore yet but it did top off the tractor batt that has been giving me trouble quickly (~1hr.). We'll see how that goes today."

    Left me sitting again today but now I'm wondering if it is the battery. I found 2 loose connections. The ground at the batt was loose and the the connector to the 2 small black wires at the batt ground was bad. Replaced the one, tightened the other but it still left me sitting.
    Voltage was 12.46, charging voltage was 14.25. I don't have a way to check DC amps, so tomorrow I'll clean the posts and connections and if that doesn't do it, swap out the batt from the 4018 and see if either tractor then fails.

    "Then, my camper wouldn't start. Wouldn't even click, so I jumped it. That function worked as described. Ran it for a bit, for the alternator to charge it some and then put the charger back on. The gauge said 16.5 amps going in. Left it overnight and it was down to FLO (maintainer charge rate) by morning. We'll see how that goes later too."

    Started the camper several times this eve. We'll see how it holds up but so far so good.

    "I have a really old L&G batt that will take a charge but not hold it.

    Charged it overnight at 10 amps, then put the new charger on recondition mode. According to the instructions, that can be a multi day process so, more on that later."

    That is still going on. May know something as early as tomorrow morn. but reading about the desulfation process, it can take a while and sometimes, more than one cycle is needed.

  6. #15
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    I wish I had great news about the L&G batt. I wish I could say that the recondition cycle ended, charge cycle started and its all OK now.

    But I can't.

    The recondition cycle ended. Far as I could tell, it was sitting there in limbo. Hit charge, started, then went right back to recondition mode. Read that some had success by trying the engine start feature a few times to boost voltage, in order to start the cycle. No dice. Its on another recondition cycle but I don't think I have the patience right now to wait on something that might not work.

    As mentioned in the previous post, I have some low tech testing to do on the tractor battery and I'll take some measurements on the camper, which so far, is the only confirmable success story for this new charger but it may have been just as good with the old "dumb" charger, so ...

    I have several others to try. It'll be easier to trust the process, once I see it bring one of them back.

  7. #16
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    It appears to be the battery in the 4020 after all. Cleaned the terminals and connectors, no good. Swapped out the one from the 4018 and it fired right up.

    Hydrometer says its good. 12.45V but it won't start the 4020 without a jump. I don't have a load tester, or a way to check DC amps. Its now on the new charger, going through the desulfation process. Hopefully know something tomorrow.

  8. #17
    Super ********* Bob MacGregor's Avatar
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    I had Hydro's 448 here a while back, no crank condition, battery voltage was 12.6 VDC, would crank and run as long as the jumper battery was still connected, would quit when jumper battery was disconnected.
    With my Milton 1260 battery tester, the battery voltage was 12.6 VDC, turn on load test and then nothing. Bad battery!!
    Hydro picked up a new battery, I installed it, good to go.
    Milton 1260 battery voltage and load tester, still available as a 1260 M which has a 12 second duration load test switch.

    P5230001.jpegP5230003.jpegP5230004.jpegP5230005.jpegP5230006.jpeg

  9. #18
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    I've eyeballed em Bob. This one will run fine once jumped and it doesn't always leave me sitting but any, is an unacceptable condition.
    Last edited by dave1mn2; 05-23-2020 at 02:05 PM.

  10. #19
    Super ********* Bob MacGregor's Avatar
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    Having been a submarine sailor in the 60s and onboard two WW2 vintage diesel boats, I am familiar with wet cell lead acid batteries. Each battery compartment, forward and after battery, had 126 cells all connected in series with very large cables and connectors. Each cell weighed 1 ton! When battery watering, specific gravity, cleaning of the battery ventilation system was done, other crew members were drafted to help the electricians. This work was time consuming and nasty to clothing. The electricians had an additional clothing allowance because of this work, but the rest of us didn't! The battery acid would eat up clothing but not noticed until after the next washing! ICVs, individual cell voltage readings, were taken at a panel fortunately. Usual battery charges were done which was called a 'normal'. Normal plus 1, 2 or more were done periodically when the charging voltage was increased for a duration until the hydrogen detection meters were registering close to the red line. These high voltage charging rates would agitate the electrolyte with the purpose of shaking off the sulfate buildup on the battery plates.
    This is why I have a 10 AMP battery charger that is for deep cycle batteries as it has a higher output voltage and I use it on most of the batteries that I deal with.
    Bear in mind that a battery will not accept a charge until it warms up, meaning that the high rate of charge in amps initially just warms up the battery. As the charge rate decreases, then the battery starts to charge.
    I do have other chargers of various outputs as I use small sealed batteries for circuit testing and periodically charge them.

  11. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bob MacGregor For This Useful Post:

    dave1mn2 (05-23-2020),Gordy (05-23-2020)

  12. #20
    Super Mod dundee222's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob MacGregor View Post
    I had Hydro's 448 here a while back, no crank condition, battery voltage was 12.6 VDC, would crank and run as long as the jumper battery was still connected, would quit when jumper battery was disconnected.
    With my Milton 1260 battery tester, the battery voltage was 12.6 VDC, turn on load test and then nothing. Bad battery!!
    Hydro picked up a new battery, I installed it, good to go.
    Milton 1260 battery voltage and load tester, still available as a 1260 M which has a 12 second duration load test switch.

    P5230001.jpegP5230003.jpegP5230004.jpegP5230005.jpegP5230006.jpeg
    Hang on to it Bob as the new chicom made ones although they look the same, ain't worth $#it. 2 in 2 years here neither one read accurately. Bought a barely used Autometer SD7 carbon pile tester for my father's birthday. Works great and dead on.

  13. The Following User Says Thank You to dundee222 For This Useful Post:

    Bob MacGregor (05-23-2020)

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