1977 Case 446 _ It Came from the Weeds - Page 4
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  1. #31
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    Engine is still at the machine shop... But it slows me down so I can spend time restoring these little areas.

    I installed the oil warning light to fill the hole in the dash. It is kind of redundant because the way I set it up the Ignition coil won't get power until the oil pressure is high enough to flip the oil pressure switch. So if the oil pressure goes low the the engine will shut down and turn on the warning lamp. Maybe with a buzzer installed it will stop me from leaving the key on.

    Can't test if it works until the engine goes in but hopefully the starter cranking will pump up the oil pressure, then the oil switch closes, fires the relay and turns on the ignition cct./ turn off the low pressure warning lamp.

    B43m tear down tomorrow, prepping for the new short block.
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  4. #32
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    Got side tracked today and painted the foot area and the instrument tower. used a rattle can power red then clear coat while it's tacky. ran out of rattle can clear so I mixed up some 2 part clear. It goes on so much better and is super tough but is a pain to clean the gun afterwards.

    IMG_20200802_201952.jpg

    IMG_20200802_201912.jpg

    I tried to get that access plate off with a slot screwdriver and vise grips, tried hammering the edge with a punch but they are on there. Maybe I'll give it a shot another day, I don't really need to be looking in there ATM.

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  6. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodzie View Post
    Got side tracked today and painted the foot area and the instrument tower. used a rattle can power red then clear coat while it's tacky. ran out of rattle can clear so I mixed up some 2 part clear. It goes on so much better and is super tough but is a pain to clean the gun afterwards.

    IMG_20200802_201952.jpg

    IMG_20200802_201912.jpg

    I tried to get that access plate off with a slot screwdriver and vise grips, tried hammering the edge with a punch but they are on there. Maybe I'll give it a shot another day, I don't really need to be looking in there ATM.
    What access plate are you talking bout?

  7. #34
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    The two slotted screws on the tunnel deck hold the TCV.

  8. #35
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    That makes sense, I was hoping for a nice panel I could open to look at all those TCV linkages.

    Bit of assembly and motor tear down today.

    IMG_20200803_131801.jpg
    One more foot rest to restore
    IMG_20200803_124155.jpg
    Tear down the suspect hillbilly build
    IMG_20200803_155207.jpg
    Bores are okay, not good. It had 90 PSI and 110 PSI before It was pulled.
    IMG_20200803_161139.jpg

    IMG_20200803_163538.jpg
    Crank looks good and the piston rod end seemed to be surviving. still seemed within spec.
    IMG_20200803_163552.jpg

    IMG_20200803_163601.jpg

    IMG_20200803_163849.jpg
    This I think was the big problem, giving it low oil pressure. It was really sloppy and I can see wear on the bottom of the bearing where copper is showing. It may have lasted a season before it popped or maybe 3 but if I am going to use this on someones property with a ditch witch attachment I don't want the engine to barf oil all over their lawn.

    I have been promised my coupler will be cut this week. should be cutting grass by Sunday

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  10. #36
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    The coupling has been tapered!

    IMG_20200808_162641.jpg
    It's not exactly what I asked for but he did a great job getting the taper 100% correct and a little bit of space for the bolt to push the coupler onto the shaft. It is going to stick out from the motor more than planned. Hopefully the pump side can take up the extra or I will have to space the pump mounting bracket off the motor a bit.
    IMG_20200808_162651.jpg
    This is the spot on the B43M casting where the crankcase pulse hose fitting for the fuel pump is located. It gives a crank pulse to the fuel pump. This will be drilled and tapped to fit a hose bib to match the B43M.
    IMG_20200808_170114.jpg
    I noticed this little problem that might be a problem. On the P218 block the cam has a little notch. Now that there are 5 governor balls instead of 10, it seems like the ball can get in this notch. I don't know if this could happen when assembled but I popped it open again and moved all the balls over 1 notch to stop this.
    IMG_20200808_171210.jpg
    Tapping out the case for the hose fitting
    IMG_20200808_172848.jpg
    Hose fitting installed and the crankcase cleaned
    IMG_20200808_180903.jpg
    Dowels had to be removed from the P218 block to put the gear case on. twisted with vise grips to remove. B43M gear case had dowels on it.
    IMG_20200808_183627.jpg
    Intake set in place. the mating surfaces get cleaned with brake clean and a tiny skim of grey sealant just to make sure its all sealed to maybe prevent an oil leak.

    I want to find a T fitting so I can split off an oil gauge and oil pressure switch from the same oil pressure port. That will be tomorrows assignment after the motor goes in.

    Also trying to use the generator oil drain valve because it has a hose barb and a nice valve so oil doesn't hit the steering arm and fly everywhere when I dump the oil.

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  12. #37
    Senior Member iko's Avatar
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    Watching your adventure and wishing you easy sailing forward!

  13. #38
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    This picture shows a problem,
    There are several versions of flyball spacers, one version is glued to the cam gear with loctite. When the engine heats up, it breaks that bond and allows the spacer to rotate on the cam gear. I think that's your problem.

    The other types,
    one has the assembly with no notch, these are typically metal flyball spacers and the balls can't get in the notch, cause there's no notch.

    The other type, the flyball spacer has a tab, that fits into the notch, once again not allowing the thing to rotate and having a ball get into the notch.

    Contact Boomer for help. What you currently have, I don't believe will work very well for you,,,



    This is the style I have,
    Last edited by Lionel; 08-09-2020 at 11:47 AM.

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  15. #39
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    If you have a gauge, why a switch too? On mine, I ran a brass capillary tube out of the engine tins and coupled it to the line coming from the gauge near the rear mounting foot where the coupling can be easily tightened and viewed for potential leaks. Be SURE to anchor the line well to the engine block so it doesn't crack in the future from vibration.008.jpg Rereading this post, I'm missing something. Did you measure the wear in the engine? Besides rings, did it need any other parts?
    Last edited by dundee222; 08-09-2020 at 03:40 PM.

  16. #40
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    The gauge is already cut into the tin side plate so I want to hook up both the gauge and switch. The gauge is nice to see oil quality, engine health.

    There are two engines, the old B43M which I just tore down and the P218 (green with the tapered shaft) that was not taken apart. The B43M is basically junk. It need the crank ground, front main bearing, bored out, new pistons, probably rods.


    IMG_20200809_131241.jpg
    Heads installed
    IMG_20200809_131358.jpg
    crank pulse hose installed
    IMG_20200809_131928.jpg
    Here is that common problem with the dipstick wearing the cap, slipping down the tube and giving a wrong oil level reading
    IMG_20200809_131958.jpg
    this is where it should sit.
    IMG_20200809_132357.jpg
    welded new tabs
    IMG_20200809_133349.jpg
    ground down and painted

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