Maine Upgraded from Case 446 to Ingersoll 444; PTO Clutch, Holding Vavle, 3PT-Hitch - Page 2
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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dundee222 View Post
    Holding valve fits between the drive motor and the TCV valve. Your PTO clutch is missing the shifter fork and i think it would be cheaper to replace it than replace the whole clutch with an electric one IF the stub shaft is still good. The sicle bar is for an 50s Bolens and would take a lot of fabrication to adapt to your tractor.
    Apparently there are two different lengths for the clutch fork, but no direction of which goes with what tractor...

    https://www.casegardentractorparts.c...28240981312214

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  3. #12
    Super Mod dundee222's Avatar
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    Check with Bill at Barneveld, or another site sponsor for the right one. He will probably have a good used one at that. Have you disassembled the clutch to see if everything else is OK?

  4. #13
    Dealer myerslawnandgarden's Avatar
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    ShalomOrchard,

    The illustrated parts list for your tractor will give you the correct part number for the fork that you need, either the C27031 which is 5-1/2" or the C26702 which is 6-1/2". You can download a parts manual for your tractor at no charge from our website, you will need your chassis s/n to select the correct manual.

    This link will take you to the library of manuals: http://eastmanind.com.mytempweb.com/...6/Default.aspx

    We do have both forks in stock.

    Take care,

    Bob
    [email protected]
    (815)286-3920

  5. #14
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    Errrr... my Serial# or PIN is14094912, so I looked in the last 444 manual. It says I need C26166 and maybe C31018. That does not agree with your answer... So, I’m confused!

  6. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShalomOrchard View Post
    Errrr... my Serial# or PIN is14094912, so I looked in the last 444 manual. It says I need C26166 and maybe C31018. That does not agree with your answer... So, I’m confused!
    I think there have been a few updates to the clutch arm / fork over the years that has resulted in several different part numbers (but still only 2 lengths). Take a look at the linkage rod on your tractor. The rod has an upward bend right at the front end where it connects to the fork.

    If it just has a small upward offset like this, it uses the 6-1/2" fork:


    But if it has a longer offset like this, it uses the 5-1/2" fork:

  7. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Ray_McAvoy For This Useful Post:

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  8. #16
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    I have the rod with the short offset.

  9. #17
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    Gaaa! Turns out my Kohler K321 motor is toast! It will at least need a rebuild.
    It turns over easy, but zero compression.

    It looks like there are hundreds of rebuild kits for Kohler K321 from $50 to $250 on Ebay. I haven't taken the engine out. I'm wondering what's the chance I could rebuild it myself; it would be fun. I'm mechanically inclined, but short on time. I have the money, and it would be good to have it done...

    What's the chance of a broken connector rod, broken valve, or something else. It seems the only things you can't get is a crankshaft.

  10. #18
    Super Moderator tss8690's Avatar
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    I’m interested in learning how you tested the compression on your K321. My understanding is that the K series engines have an automatic compression release (ACR) to help with starting the engine therefore a normal compression test that one would run on another engine would not necessarily work on a Kohler K series because of the ACR.

    There’s a guy in Maine who sells aftermarket Kohler K series parts. He’s also made a number of videos including how to rebuild a Kohler K series engine. Here’s his website: https://isavetractors.com/

    Good luck!

  11. #19
    Senior Member Gordy's Avatar
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    What's the chance of a broken connector rod, broken valve, or something else. It seems the only things you can't get is a crankshaft.
    You won't know till you open her up. I had one, the piston fell apart in 3 segments skirt, wrist pin and top

    I have a local performance shop that will do the machine work, but you do the wrenching to tear the engine most of the way down. He will check the cylinder and piston, if a bore job needed he will tell you what size to order and won't do the boring until he has the new piston. He will also check the crank journal, if it needs to be turned he will tell you what size rod to get.

    Prices seemed reasonable, $75 to bore the cylinder, $45 to turn the crank, $75 for a valve job (assuming the valves and seat are reusable).


    Gordy

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