B48M-GA-018/3444A to replace B43M in a 446?
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  1. #1
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    B48M-GA-018/3444A to replace B43M in a 446?

    I've been looking for a temporary re-power for a 446, (was intending to rebuild the B43M over the winter but need the tractor to clear snow) and came across a B48M that appears to have come from a generator (green and has an instrument panel mounted). Have not gone to look at it yet as it's a couple hours away. Fellow has not got back to me with a price either.

    Will run a compression test on it, and see if it'll fire off pouring some gas down the carb, but wondering if I would need to change the oil pan or makes other changes. It does have a straight output shaft, but looks to be longer than the B43M.

    I understand it will likely need to be de carboned, valves checked/adjusted and the usual maintenance items (points/condensor/plugs/wires).

    Any thoughts or the benefit of your experience would be welcome.

    Thanks,
    Al

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  3. #2
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    al
    you have found a rare duck.
    my manual says this is a STOCK engine,
    not made for any specific company.

    a 1 7/16 crank, option # 10 control,
    throttle mounted on the cowl.
    usually means some type of stationary engine application.

    thank you. boomer

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    Thanks for the reply Boomer. Could be 3A44A, most of it is clear in the picture, but what I take to be the first 4 is not.

    Sn looks to be 0793455220 Manufactured in 1979?

    Guess I'll go check it out tomorrow.

    Al
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    Last edited by Gippeto; 07-13-2020 at 09:38 PM. Reason: Add pictures

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    Was perusing the FB Marketplace last night and came upon a P220G for $50...only 25minutes away. Talking to owner, figured it likely had a blown rod but bought it for parts anyway...worst case was strip it and fire it on ebay. Pulled the heads last night and confirmed the blown rod.

    Pulled it apart this morning and started thinking this thing could be easily overhauled...bores still have some evidence of crosshatch, no ridges. Am at the point of tear down where I need to make a puller for the crank gear.

    Couple questions;

    Any reason at all that a P220G from a JD 910 (P220G-I/104?88) cannot go into a 1983 446?

    Best way to remove aluminum from a crank pin? Draino and muriatic acid came up in a google search...

    Anything special to watch out for during a rebuild?

    Thanks,
    Al

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    al
    that F 910 spec# is 10463 B, as close as
    i can tell.

    it also has the 1 7/16 crank output.
    you need 1 1/8.

    thank you. boomer

  9. #6
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    Could be, the sticker is a little messed up.

    Might be a dumb question, but is there some reason I'm missing why I cannot bore out a lovjoy and cut a new keyway? Only experience I have with Onans is maintaining the one B43M....and tearing down the P220 I guess lol.

    Al

    20200713_234112.jpg

  10. #7
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    Lovejoy couplers sets are not designed for direct contact with each other. They are to be used on straight shaft only. Most Onans have a tapered shaft and can be ground straight to accommodate the Lovejoy.
    My 448 has a P220G in it that was originally from a Miller welder. To remove all of the tapper it was ground to 1" diameter. One side of a Lovejoy with a 1" bore cost me around $11.50 cd.


    JD tractors have tapered shaft Onans. Just be make sure that the engine you use is set up for 3600 rpm and not 3200. That is corrected by adding the correct number of weights to the governor inside the engine.

    While engine was apart I changed flywheels, and added electronic ignition.

    Eugene

  11. #8
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    eugene
    i would like to correct you here.
    MOST ONAN engines DO NOT have a tapered output shaft.

    the TAPER on ALL onan engines is on the flywheel side.

    welders and gen sets have the tapered output shaft.

    al
    some L 099 love joy couplers can be bored to 1 7/16,
    BUT they must be STEEL.
    they are usually sintered iron.

    thank you. boomer

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  13. #9
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    The continuing saga of "As the Onan turns"... with respect to the P220

    Finished the gear puller, pulled the gear (no parts were harmed :) ) and gave the crank a lye bath overnight. This morning, the aluminum is gone from the rod journal....that worked slick. Rinsed well, dried and sitting oiled for now.

    Will pick up some crocus today to gently finish the clean up and hit it with the micrometer.

    Crossing fingers that it's "good enough" to be worth spending a little money on it doing an overhaul. If the crank turns out to be no good, then the search continues. If I can save this, I'll have a "half time" Onan for <$500...I could live with that considering the price of "unknown" used Onans locally.

    My (current) understanding is that I'll need to match casting numbers for the remaining piston and rod, and either stick to old style parts, or swap both to avoid balance issues.

    Is there someone here I should contact that has used parts, or just continue to watch ebay?

    Piston is 112-0163 std
    Rod is 170-4105-C

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    Answer to that is "see above".

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