I started on the starter side of the tractor. I removed the valve cover and tin shrouding. Here's what I noticed:
A very brittle valve cover gasket
Caked up oil and dirt on the back of the main tin
Caked up crud on the CY cooling segments
Large grass and oil accumulation near the starter
Same accumulation from the SP wire going to the flywheel
I turned the PTO nut clockwise to inspect the push rods and to visually determine if the seats were working their way out of the CY head. They appeared to be in good working condition. I removed the hood and used the hood rod as a guide to find TDC of the cylinder. Not sure if I was doing the following correctly.
Once I reached TDC, I backed off 1/4" to check the valve lash. I inserted a .005 feeler gauge into the valve stems. It was, surprisingly,
snug. When I moved the cylinder back down and up to get at the intake side, I got the same .005 reading.
I'm not sure whether I was doing this right, but the specs of my engine said that the valve lash should be between .004 and .006 for both the intake and the exhaust. So .005 should work.
I stopped because I wasn't sure if I was doing this correctly, so decided to seek help from the club members.
I removed the tin and valve cover from cylinder 1 on my BS 18 hp engine. There wasn't as much crud buildup on this side of the engine. I expected it to be much dirtier with the oil filter nearby.
What bothered me was the valve movement. It wasn't moving as freely as Cylinder 2. So, I removed the intake push rod to examine it. I rolled it on a flat surface. It didn't appear to be bent. I examined the exhaust valve, which was in good shape. I then reassembled the push rods.
After getting the push rods hooked up correctly, I rotated the engine. Much to my surprise, both rocker arms moved more freely on CY 1. I pushed the valve springs down a few times just to see if there was any looseness.
I never worked on these components in the past, so I don't have a full understanding of what might be going on. I still have to check the valve gap. I was hoping someone would explain the steps to get the engine on the power stroke.
You did it almost right. If you are turning it at the PTO end, you go counter clockwise. Bring piston up to top, making sure no pressure on rockers. If there is pressure rotate 1 more time. Should be no pressure on rockers, now turn(from PTO end) couter clockwise till piston goes down 1/4 inch. Now you can adjust the valve lash .05 on that cylinder. Once done with that cylinder rotate engine and do the same thing on the other cylinder. After done rotate engine by hand a couple times and double check. Should be good to go
Thanks, OldSkool, for your advice. It came in handy. I set the valves on both cylinders to .005. I double checked both sides. I even tried to insert .006 to make sure I was getting a true reading. The gauge wouldn't go in.
I replaced all the tin, valve covers with new gaskets. Torqued the spark plugs to 180" lbs and the VC's to 70" lbs. She started right up. After letting her warm up a bit, I took her for a test drive. I barely got 50 ft before she started to lose power. I turned around and barely got her back to the shed. Once parked, she was puffing out black smoke through the muffler.
Does anybody have any ideas what I should check next?
"On an older vehicle with a carburetor, a rich fuel condition and black smoke can be caused by a stuck or misadjusted automatic choke, a leaky metal or hollow plastic float inside the carburfetor fuel bowl, or a fuel saturated foam plastic float, or an incorrectly adjusted float (set too low)."
Double check spark plug gap, can't remember what they gap at.
Sounds like to much fuel or not hot enough fire to me
My engine calls for either one of the following spark plugs:
I Installed new RC14YC plugs that were gapped at .030. These plugs are supposed to be a hotter plug. Perhaps one of the members can verify this point.
I wanted the RC12YC plugs and purchased a set from AutoZone. I went to put them in and checked the gap. Out of the box they were gapped at .047. I returned them because my gut said you just can't re-gap .017 and expect them to last.
Yesterday, I rechecked the plugs. They are gapped correctly at .030.
[QUOTE=Maine Willy;744439]"On an older vehicle with a carburetor, a rich fuel condition and [B]black smoke can be [B]caused by a [B]stuck or misadjusted automatic choke, a leaky metal or hollow plastic [B]float inside the carburfetor fuel bowl, or a fuel saturated foam plastic [B]float, or an incorrectly adjusted [B]float (set too low)."
From some car website.... for what its worth.....
Best of Luck - Willy
I took the tractor out today and noticed that playing with the choke affected the engine smoothness and white exhaust fumes. However, if you went too little choke or too much choke, then she started to run rough or wanted to die with black smoke.
Based on your suggestion, I will read up on how to adjust the choke. Any tips you or any member could give me on how to set the choke? Could the governor setup be part of the problem?