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  1. #61
    Senior Member metalguy's Avatar
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    Any suggestions as to a particular brand, or type? I need a place to start looking for them. I just wantto be looking for the correct ones. ------Metalguy

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    Super Mod dundee222's Avatar
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    On some of my farm equipment, the cylinders are slowed down with just orifices in the lines where they connect to the cylinders. You could copy it easily by just welding the fittings closed and drilling a [small hole] in them. increase the size of the hole until you find the speed you need. Costs nothing and you can fine tune the stroke speed somewhat independently in either direction.

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    Senior Member Gordy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalguy View Post
    Any suggestions as to a particular brand, or type? I need a place to start looking for them. I just wantto be looking for the correct ones. ------Metalguy
    Here is a quick search.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=flow...hrome&ie=UTF-8


    Gordy

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  7. #64
    Senior Member metalguy's Avatar
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    thanks, Gordy, but I did that search, and bought one of those, and it didn't work. Dundee, I'll give the orifice option a try------Metalguy

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    Senior Member Gordy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalguy View Post
    thanks, Gordy, but I did that search, and bought one of those, and it didn't work. Dundee, I'll give the orifice option a try------Metalguy
    A better search may have been "hydraulic flow restrictor".
    https://www.google.com/search?q=hydr...hrome&ie=UTF-8

    My understanding is you tried this flow control. I am confused why that did not work, unless the bypass line was hooked up in such a way that it is seeing a bunch of restriction (back pressure). When used for ground speed for tilling, there are 3 lines hooked to it, high pressure in, high pressure out (for high speed), and the bypass line (low pressure return for when you are using the valve to slow the tractor down). The bypass line is plumbed in just before the oil cooler for minimal back pressure.


    A in line flow control like these below, is little more than a garden hose spicket on the side of your house. The more you open it, the more water (oil in this case) can flow through. These can be installed on a single wild cylinder or circuit to slow it down. If you opt for this be careful to get hydraulic rated, I see google is mixing some water and air valves into the search results.





    I am not sure about the welding to make a orifice, the heat can weaken the steel. Ever seen something brake along side of the weld, I have. If you do try this, use a removable fitting. Weld splatter will go every direction and drill bits don't always pull all of the chips out. You don't want any of that getting into the hydraulic system.


    Gordy
    Last edited by Gordy; 01-12-2021 at 10:06 AM.

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  10. #66
    Senior Member metalguy's Avatar
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    I have both of those. the flow control up top worked some, but when reduced enough, it slows the engine enough to kill it. Any less, and itis jerky. the small one did nothing, except leak. So....I will probably just fab up some orifices on the lathe, and see how that goes.

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    That's weird, I answered, but my post evaporated...perhaps I didn't press PQR button.

    A counterbalance valve is what you need, but I think this should work;

    3/8 NPT 8 GPM Prince WFC-600 In-Line Flow Control | Flow Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

    This has a check valve so it doesn't restrict flow when raising and you can easily adjust lowering speed until your comfortable. They usually have a set set to lock it.

    In picture below, the backhoe valve will be on left and the cylinder on right.

    flow control.gif
    edit; Okay, I see now, the image was too big and didn't let me post.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    What about installing these style orfices on the cylinders needed. You would have to play with the size and or do the math to get them closer first off.. Put them between the fitting and the welded bung on the cylinder. Just one per cylinder.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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    Senior Member sdunt's Avatar
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    Super Mod dundee222's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalguy View Post
    I have both of those. the flow control up top worked some, but when reduced enough, it slows the engine enough to kill it. Any less, and itis jerky. the small one did nothing, except leak. So....I will probably just fab up some orifices on the lathe, and see how that goes.
    Thought.. Any orifice or valve that reduces flow is going to be a problem on low hp hydraulic systems. It works well on ag tractors for lower use cylinders as there is way more engine power than can be harnessed by the pump [s] and the extra flow just goes through the relief. Is there any way to restrict the stroke of the spool controlling the problem cylinders thus only allowing it to supply enough oil for proper function and let the rest "return to the stream?"

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