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  1. #11
    Super Mod dundee222's Avatar
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    I got fed up with a cheap [central pneumatic] gun and got myself a used Devilbiss proline for 100 clams. NIGHT and DAY. Can spray primer at 9 psi and Iron gard color at 15-18 pounds smoothly. Very little overspray compared to the old one and a joy to use especially since you don't have to cover everything within a hundred yards from overspray.

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    dave1mn2 (09-09-2020)

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  4. #12
    Senior Member FastEddie's Avatar
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    HVLP for the win!

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    Senior Member Dan444's Avatar
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    Got my parts off today, pounded two posts into the ground, tied a rope and threaded through my parts. I sprayed the oven cleaner on one part and let it soak. I think oven cleaner idea is a steamy load of horse manure. The morning may prove me wrong, but the stuff essentially drained off fairly quickly.

    so.. plan b. I have an 8 gallon compressor and was going to hit harbor freight and get the 20 lb sand blaster and have at it. Issues with this is its only 8 gallon husky from Home Depot and 3.7 scfm at 90 psi. I really am not sure this compressor is up for the task. I don’t have lots of parts, but they are rusty. Anyone think this plan will work?

    I also found where the mice were living once upon a time. Under the gas tank I found a nest.
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  6. #14
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    "Issues with this is its only 8 gallon husky from Home Depot and 3.7 scfm at 90 psi. I really am not sure this compressor is up for the task. I don’t have lots of parts, but they are rusty. Anyone think this plan will work?"

    You might find a gun that will technically work under those specs but conventional wisdom is that your compressor will be way under sized for anything but tiny amounts of work at any one time. I suspect you'll be spending more time clearing the gun than blasting anything.

    How bout using
    electrolysis for rust removal? A hood will take a pretty decent sized tank to fully submerge but its so easy and works so well. Lots cheaper than tooling up to do real blasting.
    Last edited by dave1mn2; 09-13-2020 at 09:41 AM.

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    Dan444 (09-13-2020)

  8. #15
    Senior Member Dan444's Avatar
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    Hadn’t thought of electrolysis. I’ll look into it, also looking for somewhere to take and have done professional. Not sure I’ll find somewhere.

  9. #16
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan444 View Post
    Hadn’t thought of electrolysis. I’ll look into it, also looking for somewhere to take and have done professional. Not sure I’ll find somewhere.
    Here is a thread for you that should cover most of what you need to know. I did another in a plastic kiddie pool for larger parts. I will say that on some things, it was almost like magic. Other things required extra tries and some elbow grease.

    https://casecoltingersoll.com/showth...t=electrolysis

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  11. #17
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    I agree with Dave ... you'll likely find that your air compressor is too small to handle very much sandblasting. And the electrolysis rust removal is definitely worth looking into. You might also want to try a power drill with a 3M (or similar) paint & rust remover wheel (like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-7772ES-Pai.../dp/B002E9IQ9M).

    I often find myself using a combination of those 3 methods to remove old paint & rust. I usually start with electrolysis (when possible) and go from there. Like Dave said, it works great on some parts but others might require a bit of follow-up work to get the surface ready to paint. And even in situations where the part needs some additional clean-up after electrolysis, I've found that it nearly always loosens up the paint & rust to the point where other methods (sand blasting or paint/rust remover wheel) will finish taking it off much easier than they would otherwise. So even though I have a fairly large compressor & sand blaster, giving the parts an electrolysis pre-treatment cuts way down on the time spent blasting as well as reducing the amount of blast media needed.

    Years ago, I bought a Zendex Speed Blaster when I was doing some work on a car that had some surface rust around the windshield & rear window openings. The "Hot Spot" collection bag attachment worked great for keeping blast media from going all over the place inside the car. I've used it a lot since then (with & without the collection bag attachment) for small blasting projects, including final clean-up / surface prep after electrolysis. A small blaster like this might work okay with your compressor. Even if you have to strip the majority of the parts with other methods and only use the blaster for the hard to reach areas.

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    Dan444 (09-13-2020),dave1mn2 (09-13-2020)

  13. #18
    Senior Member Dan444's Avatar
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    I’ve been researching this and looks like electrolysis is the answer. Commercial sandblasting is more cash then me buying a giant compressor and blaster attachment. The drawback of this method is I don’t have a large enough container for all parts at once. So either go kiddy pool route or paint them one at a time as they are ready. I have a plastic container I can fit a few small pieces at once or one big one. So I think this is the route I’m going. I’ll post some images here once I get ramped up.

    One thing. Decals. Will this process remove the decals on the hood? If not, hows best to remove?

  14. #19
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    I had some success with a heat gun for decals. Takes a bit of patience.

    When I had my 446 frame commercially blasted it was less than $100. I think he would have charged me basically the same even if I had added a few pieces. Next time around I’ll just bring him everything rather than struggle with the wire wheel method.


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  15. #20
    Senior Member Dan444's Avatar
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    I got a price of 450.00 for all yellow parts removed from a 444. Two quotes about the same. Maybe I’m heavily rusted is why. I’ll bust out my heat gun and get going on the decals. I won’t have the tub setup til next week sometime.

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