For years I have carefully made sure the adjustment to bring the travel control to neutral on my 400 series tractors was correct, and have been very happy with the results.
On my 4000 series tractors, it is a totally different mechanism. On my 4118 as I am putting things back together, I am having issues. The travel control link was not hooked up when I bought it. Just told things didn't move anymore. So when taking things apart to restore I didn't know to look for that because it was already apart. As I put things back together it seems very tight in there. Finally get them back together, not happy with the forward position with the lever, but step on the brake and it goes to neutral. Pull lever to back up and step on the brake and the tab on the lever to accomplish that goes under the mechanism to move to neutral and the travel control lever does not move enough to go to neutral. Step on the brake 2-3 times and still not in Neutral. Can move the lever to neutral by hand, just not by stepping on it.
The engine is still out so can get to that area easily. Any ideas? Looks like I should warm that tab up and bend it upward slightly, but a PIA? Ideas? I would take the lever back out to warm it up.
Hi Bill, This is something that I struggled with on my 4118 as well. I messed with it for quite a while. That flapper piece that connects to a stub shaft on the cross member (where the steering shaft would go) seemed to be fused or bent in place. I tried freeing it from a number of angles, but finally gave up on it. I regret not fixing it as I don’t feel comfortable letting family use the tractor without this oh s$!& mechanism in place. With the engine out now is your time to fix it right.
I suspect this is a Potential situation on all 3000, 3100, and 4000, 4100, and maybe newer models.
I messed around with it some more last night. I think I may be on to something. We had a heck of a time getting the J bolt to fit into the travel lever hole.
The travel lever hole is drilled straight through the inside part of the tab (perpendicular to the tab). Then we put that lever into the dash and below bracket at a forward angle. The lower bracket is farther forward than dash hole that the lever goes trough. That has the effect of the drilled hole being at that forward angle. Then you to try to assemble the "J" bolt, which runs flat from the travel control to that hole in the travel lever. See a problem coming?
The "J" bolt runs under that neutral centering flap prior to getting to the control lever. It is very close under there and "can" rub that Neutral centering flap on the bottom side. My friend Paul and I fought that situation for a long time, before disconnecting the "J" bolt mechanism from the control valve. At that point it was easy to get the "J" Bolt into the hole in the travel control lever. Since someone had mentioned putting washers under there to get the slack out of the mechanism, I thought that sounded like a good idea. Only one washer would fit so that was good. One washer and a cotter pin. We had succeeded, except we had a heck of a time getting the "J" bolt mechanism screwed back into the (TCL) Travel Control Lever. We were trying to get the "J" Bolt level for the TCV, but the front of the "J" bolt was pointed up and back. We finally got it connected, but it was a true struggle.
So then we couldn't get the lever to kick into neutral position if you had the TCL in the backing up mode. It worked fine in forward travel position.
I went back out last night and with flashlight looked it over real well. The "J" Bolt which was at least slightly binding was never going to let things work correctly because the "J" Bolt was tight against the under side of that neutral centering flap and holding it upward from where it needed to be for the reverse function to work.
I noticed the "J" Bolt was sticking up through the hole further than it needed to be. I used a hammer and lightly tapped it downward till the cotter pin was against the washer, and the washer was flat against the drilled tab. That gave a little gap under the Neutral centering tab and allowed it to settle downward enough to be caught by the tab trying to center the TCL when coming from reverse. It doesn't go all of the way to neutral on the first step on the brake, it takes 2 times! But that is better than not working at all.
I am going back out in a few minutes and will see if I can't finalize the issue.
So I solved the issue of the brake not returning the TCL from the reverse side of things! Man having another tractor to look at sure helps. My engineer friend, Paul, was back this morning and we gave the tractor a good look over. I showed him what I had done, and we discussed ways to fix it, which they might have accomplished.
Overall I like our parts books, but they are not always the best books to assemble something from. I had been trying to assemble this 4118 (AH) from the diagrams in the parts book. Just as we had decided to take drastic action to "Fix" the problem, Paul says " How about we look at the 4020 first to see how it is setup". So out we went to see how the 4020 was setup. It does work correctly by the way! The 4118 parts book shows the "J" bolts on both levers pointed upward with a washer and a cotter pin on top of it, and we were fighting trying to get it to work. Couldn't quite get the Brake return mechanism to return the TCL totally to the neutral position without stroking the pedal twice. Then it would.
Low and behold when we looked under the 4020, both "J" Bolts went down through the tabs on the levers and as stated before the 4020 works every time. We went back to the 4118 and turned the "J" Bolts over and it has been working every since. On the TCL (Travel Control Lever) the "J" bolt was meant to go over the top of that Brake Neutral return tab. When you do that everything lines up fine. I was trying to run the "J" bolt underneath the bottom of that tab as shown in parts book and turn the bolt upward. If you do that it forces the lever downward when going to reverse, and then the tab that needs to be hit by the lever to return it is too low to get hit. When you turn the "J" bolt over and go down through the tab everything lines up.
Easy fix! Good thing that 4020 was back at the shed!
Glad to hear you got it sorted out Bill. Here is the picture of mine with Jbolts going in through the top. According to your finding this the correct way. I see what you mean about the parts diagram adding confusion to this.
The problem on mine is the flap is bent or otherwise fused in place and will not move at all. When I had the engine out I pulled, pried, heated and air chiseled on that thing and it would not budge.
On PS and AHD tractors both of which have PS, the 'flap' (guide, neutral return) is mounted onto a short fixed pin installed into a hole in the center of the support, steering gear, as it is called on manual steering models. On PS tractors, the 'flap' turns on the fixed pin. On manual steering tractors the 'flap' is installed onto the steering shaft which is frequently turned and the 'flap' doesn't have a chance to get rusty and seize.
I deleted my post regarding the position of the 'j bolt' on PS and all hydraulic tractors as it was incorrect. Here is the correct info.
The control rod, aka the 'J bolt', that connects to the travel lever is installed from the top of the hole in the lever on all 3000, 3100, 4000 and 4100 series tractors. This is due to the presence of the guide, neutral return aka the 'flap' on these models. The parts manual for these tractors shows it being installed from the bottom of the lever which incorrect. On 200 and 400 series tractors, the control rod aka 'J bolt' is installed from the bottom of the lever.
Last edited by Bob MacGregor; 09-19-2020 at 10:31 PM.
All I knew when things were not working from the bottom on this 4118, we took a look at my 4020 without power steering. And those bolts were from the top, and working well on the 4020. Once we flipped them over, suddenly all of my issue with the 4118 went away. So now I know that the 4020 was correct. Because of the 4118 parts manual I spent a lot of time trying to make the "J" bolt go under the flap, and the bolt turned up to go through the TCL. I would have still been trying to make that work without my 4020 to look at.
That is another good reason to have more than one of these in your shed! Better to have it from the same series!