Case 446 L80 snowblower belt conversion to hydraulic - Page 6
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  1. #51
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    I'd set up a shear bolt/pin on your drive sprocket. Instant, easy to replace and not too hard to fab. Basically your sprocket spins freely on the shaft and is driven by a bolt through a flange welded or keyed to the shaft itself. That's how the augers are driven on big machines.

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  3. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kessler View Post
    My final question is what safeties can I install to protect from ruining one of pump or motor if I jam the auger. Plan on installing a check valve loop as previously mentioned and a drain to tank. In three years I'm jammed It twice once with a rock, and once with a stick that fell in blizzard and was covered with snow.
    I'm glad your considering safety and protecting the motor.

    Well, I went to surplus for a cross-line relief and found the exact valve you need. Maybe a little big with SAE#12 ports, but the circuit is right.

    https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...382-9-8745.axd

    If that's more than you want to spend, this is also a good solution. It will require that you throttle down and gently shift PTO valve to neutral. This also has the advantage of being a E-Stop. It will stop very quickly if you jam to neutral, if say your dog is getting sucked in the auger.

    https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...-4019-50-H.axd

    A snow caster doesn't have nearly the inertia of a bush-hog. The bush-hogs big blade is like a flywheel, storing kinetic energy. So I think this cross-line relief will be fine. You may need to turn in one of the adjust on the inlet side to use the 3000psi you have available. I initially suggested the single check solution because its the cheapest.

    Put either of these valves as close to hydraulic motor as possible.

    I like the shear bolt idea too.
    Last edited by Hydrogeek; 10-26-2020 at 05:00 PM. Reason: additional info.

  4. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by dundee222 View Post
    I'd set up a shear bolt/pin on your drive sprocket. Instant, easy to replace and not too hard to fab. Basically your sprocket spins freely on the shaft and is driven by a bolt through a flange welded or keyed to the shaft itself. That's how the augers are driven on big machines.
    I like this idea and it's probably a cheaper option.

  5. #54
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    Then you still need bypass check.

    I don't know how you're going to know what size shear bolt to use. Walk behind snow blowers typical have shear bolts on the infeed auger, and you can get bolts specifically made for that purpose at lawn equipment suppliers. The infeed auger is gear down on these two stage blowers, so the bolts would shear at a much higher torque than what you would want. Old push mowers use a standard key way and an aluminum key that would shear if you hit something solid; I've sheared one or two.

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    I think I'd start small 3/16ths and if its breaking often just drill the hole bigger and install larger shear pin.

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  8. #56
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    Sorry a very good friend died in a water accident, just getting to project. there are pics, took pulleys off mule drive, then had to remove pulley off shaft, drilled 3 1/2 hole on center to shaft used hole saw to cut hole, ruined hole bit but nice hole, after heating up pulley bushing twice red hot then cooling quickly with ice cubes still wouldn't budge. All my pulley pullers where to big or to small so used harmonic puller drilled two holes in pulley and finally got off pulley also did have to buy a 3/16 long punch to knock out the round key had to be ft long to get into access and be able to hit with ten
    lb hammer. But then next issue with motor and lovejoy still to short to shaft needs to be 3 inches longer 😞. Was going to replace whole shaft but that was going to be a lot of work, so improvised, bought
    2 bushings and some 3/4 rod slide bushings onto shaft and spot welded together. then took off and finished welding then cut 3 inch rod and welded one end. Other end used existing hole in shaft to fasten with bolt. My next question is this look at picture and tell me which one is right way to run hydraulic lines. Excuse the drawing art is not my strong point.

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    Pictures of process
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    Pictures so far
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    Hello,
    I don't meant to hijack this thread but the case drain was mentioned for the bush hog, I have what I believe to be an older hydracutter (bush hog) as it doesn't have a case drain. I'll be running it on a 7020 should I do anything other than idle down before shutting down the cutter?
    thank you
    Tim

  12. #60
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    Hi Tim

    I would suggest you put a case drain on. The older CASE motors that I have seen have an unused case drain port. Post a picture of all sides of your motor.

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