Auxiliary lighting. - Page 2
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  1. #11
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    "I HATE the idea of drilling in non factory places"

    Different idea ... Who says the lights have to be horizontal, or at the back of the tower? If I move them to the edge and angle them, cut a slit in double sided tape enough for the wires to pass through, I can maybe improve performance compared to the above and no holes.

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  3. #12
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    Yep, thats the deal. Improves performance and no holes to drill.

    Again, just jumpered to the batt, headlights off. This location,

    DSCN0908.jpg
    Yields this light.

    DSCN0905.jpg
    From about where your head would be.

    DSCN0906.jpg

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  5. #13
    Senior Member Gordy's Avatar
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    If you do go with the tape idea, I strongly recommend 3M brand I have used other brands that failed quickly.

    Maybe glue a couple of strong magnets to the back of each light. Then you could move them as needed.
    https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...8197_200328197

    Their full line of magnets.
    https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...cation+magnets


    Gordy

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  7. #14
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    I was thinking dbl. side tape for the thickness, in order to make a chase for the wires but the magnet idea is good too. Maybe a combo of both. I have some sheet magnets I bought for a different project. Now I just need to remember where they are.

  8. #15
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    Back to the tail light upgrade. If we want to assume that the Sylvania 904 incandescent is the standard, they say 20 lumens. It isn't hard to find 904 LEDs at least 5x brighter and possibly 10x.

  9. #16
    Senior Member Gordy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave1mn2 View Post
    I was thinking dbl. side tape for the thickness, in order to make a chase for the wires but the magnet idea is good too. Maybe a combo of both. I have some sheet magnets I bought for a different project. Now I just need to remember where they are.
    When you say "sheet magnets", do you mean like refrigerator magnets? If so I doubt they will have enough strength to stay put with the vibrations of the machine. That's why the first link is for neodymium magnets.


    Gordy

  10. #17
    Super Moderator tss8690's Avatar
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    There are magnetic light bases that are specifically made for cars and ATVs. I’m sure those would be adequate. In fact, I’m considering a pair of magnetic light mounts for a set of LED lights for my snowcaster.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gordy View Post
    When you say "sheet magnets", do you mean like refrigerator magnets? If so I doubt they will have enough strength to stay put with the vibrations of the machine. That's why the first link is for neodymium magnets.


    Gordy

  11. #18
    Super Mod dundee222's Avatar
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    I don't cry over drilling holes to mount permanent accessories. Especially 1/8" holes for pop rivets or to pass wires. Clean/solid/dendable/even factory looking and very easy to fill in if for some "way out there" reason I don't want the accessory in the future. Heck, on my resto 446, I filled all the unused factory holes just for aesthetics. As far as paint, magnets and tape will discolor or scratch it over time anyways.
    Last edited by dundee222; 11-21-2020 at 05:26 PM.

  12. #19
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    Still on the 4018, this time as a work light. Very convenient sizing, angles and wiring to mount on the rear fender.

    DSCN0911.jpg
    More than enough for hitch work.

    DSCN0909.jpg
    DSCN0910.jpg
    Now to the 3016. Angled, on the tower.

    DSCN0914.jpg
    From the seat, RM48 deck.

    DSCN0912.jpg
    I think these will do exactly what I want them to do. The final details of mounting, wiring them and how long they last, are the all that is left to know.

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  14. #20
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    OK, electronics guys. You all know of gear that I have no clue of.

    The question and opportunity is, this could be either spliced into the existing lighting system, or be completely independent, with it's own power, ground and switch.

    With the plastic dash, cutting in extra switches is risky. Especially on later models, where the dash is actually a laminate and any opportunity for moisture invasion, should be avoided. So, something under the hood. It could even be inline. Is there such a thing as a weather proof, in line rocker? Where would I look for such things? Auto parts house, or would it be a more special item?

    EDIT,

    Since we don't know anything about durability of these lights, I'm leaning toward an independent wiring / switching system and even then, using the male / female plugs near the fixtures themselves.

    EDIT #2.

    Just guessing but the switch should be on the hot side? AC doesn't care and I'd guess DC doesn't either. A circuit is complete, or it isn't but I'd think it would be good not to have too many permanently hot wires, strung too far.
    Last edited by dave1mn2; Yesterday at 08:31 AM.

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