4018 Kills Engine When PTO Clutch Is Engaged - Page 2
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  1. #11
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    4018 KillsEngineWhen PTO Clutch Is Engaged

    [QUOTE=Maine Willy;750883]OK - This us a long shot - is it possible there is a wire shorted to the frame by the lower right side of the engine where the harness goes up to the PTO?

    Willy,

    I took a look at the wiring like you suggested. The wires are heavily protected with a plastic tubing and electric tape. I had my assistant turn the PTO switch on and off with the engine running and gave it a wiggle test and it passed. No loose wire from what I observed.

    John

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    Maine Willy (11-21-2020)

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  4. #12
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    I read your post and I have several questions. Like you, my electrical skills are definitely not my strong suit. I removed the tower panel and like you mentioned, I found the rear chassis wire harness.

    It had a sticker on the lower half of the harness going to the rear of the tractor. I assume the wiring goes to the seat safety switch and the tail lights. My tractor doesn't have a rear PTO system, but the wires are there for any future upgrade.

    Here is what was on the lower half of the sticker/label:

    C48003
    9105034
    REV-C14419-1
    Sept. 2003

    I'm hoping you or one of the parts dealers can interpret this label and provide a link to the correct wiring diagram.

    Your post lost me on how you determine which wire to jump. Did you take the harness halves apart and place a wire into both halves until you found the correct wire going to the PTO?

    The next step you took was to just reconnect the harness and everything worked. Could you expand the steps a bit for me?

    My harness has accumulated a lot of crud over the years. The pump tubing burst a few times and leaves, grass clippings love to stick to it. I tried to separate the harness but she refused to come apart. So, I stopped. I clean this area out with compressed air from time to time.

    John

  5. #13
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    Yesterday, I examined my deck, thinking that the reason the PTO switch is killing the engine when turned on is that it has a bearing issue. That was not the case. The drive pulley turned freely by hand with all three blades spinning with little effort.

    I then turned my attention to the idler pulleys. The left pulley spinned freely and the right pulley had a slight drag on it. Since the tractor still has the deck mounted, I will reexamine it once I remove the deck assembly for the front snow blade. I want to keep the deck on until the PTO switch issue is solved. Could the engine deck belt be contributing to the problem?

    My biggest surprise of the day was when I went to install the air filter & cover. The engine immediately started to run rough. I then removed the filter and air cover, and she immediately ran smooth. Anybody have an idea why this happened and how to fix it? A new air filter was installed this Spring.

    John

  6. #14
    Senior Member Gordy's Avatar
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    My biggest surprise of the day was when I went to install the air filter & cover. The engine immediately started to run rough. I then removed the filter and air cover, and she immediately ran smooth. Anybody have an idea why this happened and how to fix it? A new air filter was installed this Spring.

    John
    I don't recall, Did you adjust the carb? That needs to be done with the air filter inplace. If not it will run rich because of the resistance to airflow the filter induces.


    Gordy

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    Did you adjust the carb? That needs to be done with the air filter inplace. If not it will run rich because of the resistance to airflow the filter induces.

    Gordy,

    No, I didn't adjust the carb. I don't know how to do it. I would love to take it to someone near me in Oak Forest, IL who knows Ingersoll 4018 Vanguard engines to do the job.

    I don't know which carb is on my 4018 to even order the correct gaskets or gasket repair kit. I don't know which screw to adjust to correct a rich condition. Do you turn the adj screw clockwise for rich and counter clockwise for a lean condition? Where do you find the carb model stamped on the carb? I didn't see any marking on front or sides of the unit, unless it's on the back side, which would be difficult to see unless you remove it from the tractor.

    What puzzles me is that with the lower part of the air filter housing bolted to top of the carb, I can't see how you would get at the adjustment screws if it's on the side of the carb without removing the bottom air housing tin.

    Could someone provide a step by step procedure to adjust the carb? Also, I need an Ingersoll 4018 Carb parts PDF file. The one I have shows 3012, 3014, 3016, and 4016 parts catalog 83112.

    John

  8. #16
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    Adjusting the carb won't fix your electrical problem and the tech library has all kinds of goodies.

    Like this,

    https://manuals.casecoltingersoll.co...atermarked.pdf

    The Ingersoll manual won't do you any good on this. Probably better off going straight to Briggs. The engine #s are everything.

    https://www.vanguardpower.com/eu/en_...-manuals.html#

    Ought to look at this while you're at it but again, it won't fix your elec. prob.

    https://casecoltingersoll.com/showth...or-adjustments

  9. #17
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    4018 KillsEngineWhen PTO Clutch Is Engaged

    Adjusting the carb won't fix your electrical problem...

    Dave,

    Your correct that adjusting the carb won't fix the electrical problem on my tractor. But during the troubleshooting process, I discovered the following:

    I just removed the motor to the deck belt. With the engine running and sitting in the seat, I turned the PTO switch on. The clutch was spinning and the engine didn't die. I decided to get off the seat with the PTO on and engine still running, and the engine started to shut down. I believe this simple test shows that the seat safety switch works. As Maine Willy pointed out that he had a loose wire near the cluster or wires near the starter.

    I had my assistant turn the PTO switch on with the engine running and gave these wires a wiggle test to see if the PTO would skip a beat and turn off or pause. It did not. No loose wires from what I observed.

    With winter fast approaching the Chicagoland area and I need to remove the deck over to the front blade for snow removal. I decided to put the carb filter and housing back on with the deck belt off and take it for a test drive. That is when the carb issue pop up when I reassemble the air filter housing she was running rough. I then removed the filter and the engine smooth out. That's when another member said I was running to rich.

    I don't like jumping around, but I need the tractor for winter snow duties. I'm hoping that I can solve the PTO mess come spring for grass cutting season. I don't know what else to test regarding the PTO mess. I still have the deck on and could replace the old belt with a new belt and see what happens. Do you think changing the belt could be part of the problem of why the PTO will not spin under a load?

    John

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    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    "Do you think changing the belt could be part of the problem of why the PTO will not spin under a load?"

    You have gremlins, so I'm reluctant to say but no, I don't think so. The clutch is a sturdily built thing. If the belt was too tight, so much so to pull the PTO somehow enough to cause a failure, I doubt you'd be able to loosen the idler enough to get it on.

    As for the carb, you're about to discover what I had to recently learn. VG carbs are very tough to properly adjust with the engine in the tractor. In the thread I linked, Bob gave some tips and I don't know a soul who knows more about them than him.

  11. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by gman28 View Post
    Your post lost me on how you determine which wire to jump. Did you take the harness halves apart and place a wire into both halves until you found the correct wire going to the PTO?
    My tractor is a 1989 3016 with original Onan engine, so I’m not certain the similarities of the electrical harness to your Vanguard powered tractor.

    What I can tell you is my extension harness has two wires, so it was pretty easy to jump the right circuit. I would suggest you disconnect the harness, give it a thorough inspection and cleaning, and then start jumping the wires to determine which circuit runs the PTO clutch. Short or any other viable suggestions I believe your problem may very well be in the harness. Here is a photo I took of mine at the time, it was a pretty simple procedure.....

    On another note, I ran across the same issue on a 1989 4016 as well. That turned out to be electrical in nature also. The previous owner jumped the seat safety switch to bypass it. I returned it to it’s original operating function and that solved the PTO issue for that tractor. Point being, I believe you problem is in the electrical harness someplace.
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    Last edited by jrussell; 11-24-2020 at 10:05 AM.

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