new chute control
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  1. #1
    Senior Member jkippin's Avatar
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    new chute control

    I went through a lot of posts about different chute controls and decided to show off what I came up with. Some of these have already been shown by other members but here they are again.
    I have just the rotator for the chute presently, I have another motor on order for the chute deflection. The motor is from American Science and Surplus p/n 5503740 it is for a Malibu seat tilt motor.
    The shaft can be drilled by hand. I purchased a deep socket metric from Home Depot, put on the shaft hex side first. The fit was snug so I left it in place and drilled a hole clean through for a cotter pin. on the auger side I pulled the OEM shaft out of the wire auger. I installed a new 3/16 shaft reinserted it and the re-drilled for the cotter pin. I attached a 3/8 universal with another cotter pin and this is how the drive is set up.
    The wiring uses two reversing switches, one for up and down the other for left to right. with a reversing switch you need to run a ground to the switch and power-inputs. going out will be two wires to the motor inputs. what a reversing switch does is swaps the positive and negative at the switch this is what gives you the forward and reverse on the motor. I used a wire trailer plug to connect these together so at the end of the season I can unplug everything from the cab and not have wires hanging
    The third switch is for the LED lights mounted on the cab. I still may add a back up light at some point butt may wire that separate.
    Ok the mount I made for the motor is nothing fancy just some old 1-11/2 angle I had laying around from an old bed frame. this was welded to hold the motor in a cradle and then bolted to the blower frame.
    I also added some knobs to keep the window from rattling
    Enjoy and thanks to everyone for the great ideas, hope this helps too.
    IMG_0642.jpgIMG_0643.jpgIMG_0644.jpgIMG_0645.jpg

  2. The Following 12 Users Say Thank You to jkippin For This Useful Post:

    Capt. Dan (11-26-2020),CobyDog$10 (11-23-2020),dave1mn2 (11-26-2020),dbeiter (11-22-2020),dundee222 (11-22-2020),fritzawitz (11-22-2020),Gordy (11-22-2020),Harry (11-22-2020),Hydrogeek (11-22-2020),Maine Willy (11-23-2020),[email protected] (11-23-2020),Seabee (11-23-2020)

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  4. #2
    Senior Member jkippin's Avatar
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    One thing I did that was not mentioned is coat any areas of the motor with liquid electrical tape where water may enter. These are not designed for outdoor use. It was windy and raining pretty hard in the last day or so. I went to check things out and the motor still works awesome. I will update this as the next drive motor for the chute deflection gets installed.
    I must be a sick man because I am now looking forward for the snow to come!

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to jkippin For This Useful Post:

    Capt. Dan (11-26-2020)

  6. #3
    Junior Member cgarr's Avatar
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    new chute control

    Well that’s slicker than snot on a door knob

    Looks like a power seat motor

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by cgarr; 11-25-2020 at 10:47 AM.

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  8. #4
    Senior Member Gordy's Avatar
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    One minor detail on the caster I can see that at least one bolt is backwards, in the first picture look inside the chute. See the bolt nut and washer? That needs to be turned around, you don't want anything (even rust) in the path of the snow. If that is the original bolt it should be a carriage bolt with a low profile rounded head.


    Gordy

  9. #5
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    I have the exact same one on Frankie . I have a different blower (2 stage 3 pt ) ,so mine is mounted upright with a plastic cover over it . Works great .
    Dave

  10. #6
    Senior Member jkippin's Avatar
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    Gordy thanks for the tip. I never gave it much thought that's the way it came all the bolts have the nuts on the inside.I guess ill have another project to do now.

  11. #7
    Senior Member Gordy's Avatar
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    In that case it would be a good idea to remove the chute and wire brush both mating surfaces, and paint them with graphite paint. Slip Plate and E-Z Slide are two common brands. It would not hurt to do this to the inside of the chute also. The graphite is a slick surface to let the snow flow better.

    Have you considered adding rubber extensions to the paddles yet? Closing the gap gives better throwing distance.


    Gordy

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    Capt. Dan (11-26-2020)

  13. #8
    Super Mod Capt. Dan's Avatar
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    That's awesome jkippin !!! Thanks for sharing your build. Hope all works well for you and you get all the snow till your hearts content!!! You can definitely have mine for the winter. Please keep us updated on your progress and maybe some action photos while you're blowing snow.



    Gordy, thanks for the added tips and you definitely have a keen eye for detail.

    Enjoy
    Capt Dan

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    Gordy (11-26-2020)

  15. #9
    Senior Member dave1mn2's Avatar
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    Re using Slip Plate. I use it on the underside of decks routinely. I can't say that it makes things slicker necessarily, as I use a mulching deck and never tested for any difference in how far it throws clippings but it does markedly reduce them clinging to the underside, so it sure can't hurt.

    On a dozer blade I treated, I used 2 coats with vertical strokes and noticed that when pushing snow with the blade angled, the stroke marks themselves, seemed to add friction. So, for this application, if I had the gear to spray it, that would be my choice. Otherwise, be sure to use brush strokes in the desired direction of travel.

  16. #10
    Senior Member BobAfton's Avatar
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    Here is an example of what Gordy mentions. I painted the inside of the auger housing also.
    ChuteRotation Motor and Bracket s(3).jpg Chute Deflector w Linear Actuator (1).jpg
    Bob

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    Gordy (11-26-2020)

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