How to needed for Ignition Module replacement re 4018

[MrFixIt]

Anyone know of a stickie/how to guide to replace ign. module on a p218g in a 4018. Looks like I have to remove pump and motor from tractor to get all this done. Just finished rehabbing and getting it running nice for 1 hour.


Washed tractor down but didn't much water on motor. Cranked it later to put in shelter and it did cut out some on one cylinder. Didn't think much of it. Later was running my 3018/4018 and kubota to charge batteries etcc. and the 4018 started a little ragged but smoothed out and ran fine for 10 minutes or so. Came back to check on all three and 4018 had died whilst the others were purring along. Never would restart. I get big voltage drop between both coil terminals and ground as compared to battery resting no load voltage(key off). 1/2volt on the small and 2-2.5volts on big terminal to ground. Removed ign module wires from coil and drain is gone on.

Anyone seen this before. Thanks Eric

[myerslawnandgarden]

Eric,

For replacement of the control module you are on the right track. You need to separate the engine from the pump by removing the bolts that secure the pump adapter to the flywheel. Do not attempt to remove the pump adapter from the pump.

You then need to remove the engine so that you can remove the blower housing and flywheel in order to access the control module.

Any questions I'll be happy to assist,

Bob
www.casegardentractorparts.com
[email protected]
(815)286-3920

[Seabee]

Did one in a 3016 a year ago. Not fun, but not bad either. Biggest job is between your ears. When you get the engine out of the frame, you are almost done. Just do the process.

Bill

[MrFixIt]

Did one in a 3016 a year ago. Not fun, but not bad either. Biggest job is between your ears. When you get the engine out of the frame, you are almost done. Just do the process.

Bill

Thanks Bill, Your right about the mental aspect. Just got it all back together cut the yard running/cutting smooth and this.

Seems like such a bear guess not. Can't understand why module would crap after much pressure washing 3 weeks prior.

[MrFixIt]

Bob, I 'm guessing you undo the bolts going into the mesh screen?

[MrFixIt]

Is the module grounded to anything? Why is it draining current and to where. Is it shorting to chassis ground at module mount to engine? Why isn't it water proof?

[Bob MacGregor]

There is a capacitor in the ignition system and it is mounted near the coil and carb. I would replace this first to rule it out. Also check the coil for continuity, each end of the secondary winding is connected to each plug wire terminal, the primary winding is across each terminal and the capacitor is connected to one of the coil terminals. When I need to replace an ignition module, I also replace the rotor, the capacitor and the coil all at the same time, expensive but peace of mind! Recently did the P218 in my 6018L.
An indication of a bad ignition module is getting spark only when the key switch is turned on and off quickly, usually the engine will sputter.

[Bob MacGregor]

With the engine disconnected, spark plugs removed and the bolts removed, the R/H side panel removed, move the engine forward which will allow access to the pump coupling bolts. With a 1 1/2" open end wrench placed onto the flats of the pump coupling to hold the crankshaft from turning, break loose each coupling bolt rotating the engine with the open end wrench to gain access to each bolt. When the coupling bolts(4) have been removed, pull the engine away from the coupling.
I usually either drain the fuel tank or plug the disconnected fuel line. Don't forget to disconnect the clutch connector, of course the hood has to be removed first!

[Nut Case]

I think I would test the module before taking the engine apart. The onan manual has a section on that. been a few years since i did one but it was easy. Module tested good. Coil was bad if i recall.

[MrFixIt]

Will it damge module if you test ohms to ground on each module lead?